Description
Looking for a project that can dress you both for an afternoon promenade and an evening ball? This bespoke 1895–1897 inspired ensemble is designed to do exactly that.
This bespoke creation offers a historically accurate silhouette, a precise fit, and it uses vintage materials that catch the light and the eye. I will bring it to reality by using techniques studied directly from original garments in my private collection.
The carefully sourced vintage fabrics give this piece a distinctive personality. Every gown I make is one of a kind. I never replicate my designs exactly, just as a painter never recreates the same painting twice.
The Character
Red and soutache is a theme I go back to since I started doing this. Every time I add something, every new piece brings imrpovements in term of design and technique.
This piece draws inspiration from many originals of the time, not last the hussar uniform of Cléo De Merode I have seen at the Poiret exhibit in Paris.
The skirt of this piece will be narrower, as the fabric I have is not much, but the color and the hand will do wonders.
Materials
The piece will be made in a lovely red faille. The fabric was reclaimed from a tailoring workshop that specialized in clerical vestments. It is a good look-alike for silk, though it is a cotton and viscose blend, according to the burn test. It may have some silk in it. Fear not the viscose: the shine is just hinted and the cotton provides a hand that is very close to that of the silk version. This makes this fabric much lighter and airier than the wool broadcloth that would be normally used for this style of garments. It will be all embellished with soutache braid in black, and black spherical buttons. The guts of the garment will be in beige cotton, the lightest I could find, for a look that is true to the period. Tarlatane and synthetic whalebone will complete the recreation of the historical look with accuracy that matches the highest accuracy standards of feel, hand and flexibility.
Technique
This piece will be constructed using methodologies found in original 1890s garments from my personal archive.
To keep the price accessible, I reserve the right to use small modern efficiencies on the inside only, such as discreet machine finishes where originals allow similar approaches. There will be no machine topstitching on the exterior unless historically documented.
Many elements will be entirely hand-finished to preserve authenticity and maintain full control over the final result. I take the faster road only when it does not influence the look and meaningfully improves time and cost.
The amount of time needed to properly handle the soutache without pulling the fabric underneath will be a pain, I confess. The beauty is worth it, but I need to bill the extra hours, as they are plenty.
Bespoke
Fitted and structured garments require a meticulous approach that goes far beyond simple made-to-measure adjustments. Two individuals with the same bust measurement can have entirely different body structures, postures, and cup sizes. For an investment like this, the fit must be superior to anything ready-made.
For this reason, a mock-up (toile) is included in the price.
The process is as follows:
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I draft a pattern based exclusively on your measurements.
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I build a structured toile with boning where necessary.
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I ship it to you for fitting.
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We schedule a video call where I assess the fit, guide you through marking key points, and ask for reference photos.
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You ship the toile back to me.
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I revise the entire pattern using this information to create your final garment.
Each pattern is drafted from scratch, every time. Bespoke garments may require up to forty separate measurements. I will provide a full measurement tutorial before we begin.
Requirements
These commissions are open to everyone, provided you grant me a degree of creative freedom. This does not mean altering your aesthetic or transforming you from an elf into an evil witch; rather, it acknowledges that ideas evolve during construction. Fabrics, colors, and details often dictate what the piece needs to reach its full potential. That is typically where the magic happens.
Before we start, you must have proper historical undergarments, as the silhouette depends on them:
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A corset providing at least 8 cm / 3 in of waist reduction
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A petticoat (often two) with enough structure to support the skirt
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A chemise or spaghetti-strap top to wear under the corset
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Shoes with the same heel height you will use with the finished gown
For the day version, gloves and a hat or bonnet are essential. You may source these wherever you prefer (I take commissions for millinery pieces, the hats you see on my head at historical events are all me-made), but they are required for the complete look and by purchasing this listing you accept to always wear the day dress with the proper accessories.
Timeline
I usually have an 8 months waiting line. I usually do my best to start the mock-up earlier, but before that time frame I will not be able to start the final dress. If you have a strict deadline, please email me at [email protected] BEFORE placing the order.
Payment plans are available.
Please provide a phone number at checkout and fill the form with an email address you check at least twice a week.
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