After an amazing reenactment experience with Le Vie del Tempo, I decided I need something warm and possibly with a high neckline, just in case. I was just a guest, I do not know if I’ll be there next year, but at the same time I need something for the cold weather, if I need to go to Venice for the Carnevale in a bad weather day. As I am selling the Vestier painting’s robe en chemise, I need something that allows me not to catch a cold.
And, most of all, the top of the ensemble will be adaptable to both 18th and 19th century. usually, I’d consider this idea pure insanity. But in the 1870s and 80s there was a sort of return of some rococo elements. Mostly, they were embroidered jackets that recalled the ones men used to wear in the 18th century. Yey!
So take the bum roll off, get the bustle, and a new skirt, and it could work.
Now it’s the time for some images. Lots of originals. First, men’s jackets from the 18th Century. The cut of the coat changed much over the century, from very wide cuffs an no collar, to tight cuffs and collars than originated the huge ones of regency time. Then the lower part of the jacket started the century wide and wider, to end it in the back, the ancestor of the tight. What I eally want to be the center of the ensemble, is the embroidery, with floral motifs, along the front closure.
The following originals are in no particular order. I will focus on the teal velvet one, with silver embdoidery. These jackets were usually richly embroidered in colorful silk threads, or with intricate gold or silverwork, including sequins and sometimes bullion, keep this in mind.
Now let’s go to what women used to wear for riding or pretending to ride, just to have a nice frock in the theme of the day. Hunting had specific colors and dresscode, and this gown will not adhere to them. Besides, would you go hunting with a richly silver emrboidered jacket? You don’t want something you have to be very careful about, right?
And now to some 1880s jackets and outfits and one from the 90s. Besides the huge sleeves of the one from the 90s, the others are quite close to the striped taupe redingote with waistcoat seen above. The first one almost perfectly adheres to late 18th century styles for men. The second is a twist, so it’s likely that other twists were made to get the fashionable victorian look.
For the jacket, I want some soft, short piled, oxidised-copper-color velvet.
For the embroidery, I have bullion and silver flat sequins in mind. because proper and complete silverwork is not something I can handle easily. An, most of all, I have found some nicely made bullion appliques I can take apart to shorten the crafting time, so I’ll only have to work a bit around these, to create the illusion of something that is not appliqué.
I will make the rest, for both the XVIII and XIX century options, in ivory cotton satin. I will think later about making some more accurate silk skirt and waistcoat.